How to start retinol and exfoliating acids without irritation
What retinol, AHAs, BHAs and PHAs do, how often to use them at first, why you should not use them on the same night, and why sunscreen matters even more.
Retinol and exfoliating acids are some of the most useful ingredients in skincare. They are also the ones that cause the most irritation when people start too fast. Go slowly, use one at a time, and your skin will thank you.
What they do
- Retinol (a form of vitamin A) helps skin renew itself. Over months, it can soften the look of fine lines and make texture smoother.
- AHAs (such as lactic and glycolic acid) exfoliate the surface. They help dull, rough skin look brighter and smoother.
- BHA (salicylic acid) dissolves in oil, so it can work inside the pore. It helps with blackheads and visible pores.
- PHAs (such as gluconolactone) exfoliate the surface very gently. They often suit sensitive skin.
Start low and slow
- Pick one new active product. Do not start two in the same month.
- Use it two or three evenings a week for the first few weeks.
- Apply it to clean, dry skin. Damp skin can absorb more and sting more.
- Follow with a simple moisturizer.
- If your skin feels comfortable after two or three weeks, add one more night.
Some dryness or light flaking in the first weeks is common with retinol. Stinging, burning or red patches are a sign to stop for a few days and then go back to fewer nights.
Do not use them on the same night
Retinol and exfoliating acids both make skin work harder. Use them on different evenings. For example, use the exfoliant on Monday and Thursday, and retinol on the other nights. On some nights, use only a cleanser and moisturizer to let your skin rest.
Sunscreen is not optional
Retinol and AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every morning, even when it is cloudy.
Who should be careful
- If you are pregnant, trying to get pregnant or breastfeeding, do not use retinoids. Ask your doctor before you use any new active product.
- If you have eczema-prone skin or very reactive skin, ask a dermatologist before you use acids or retinoids.
- If you use a prescription skin product, ask your doctor before you add another active product.
Products in this article
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How Glowinout helps
In the Glowinout app, these products only appear in the evening part of your routine, and each one shows how often to use it at first. Glowinout gives cosmetic guidance, not medical advice.
Sources
- American Academy of Dermatology, retinoid or retinol?.
- American Academy of Dermatology, skin care basics.